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Bestinlebanon.com | Lebanon Tourism | Tripoli
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Tripoli |
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Inside
the Great Mosque |
Tripoli
(Trablos), 85 kilometers north of Beirut, has a special character all its own. Thanks to
its historical wealth, relaxed lifestyle and thriving business climate, this is a city
where modern and medieval blend easily into a lively and hospitable metropolis. Known as
the capital of the North, Tripoli is Lebanon’s second largest city.
Forty-five buildings in the city, many dating from the 14th century, have been registered
as historical sites. Twelve mosques from Mamluke and Ottoman times have survived along
with an equal number of “madrassas” or theological schools.
Secular buildings include the “hammam” or the bathing-house, which followed the
classical pattern of Roman-Byzantine baths, and the “khan” or caravansary.
The souks, together with the “khans”, form an agglomeration of various trades
where tailors, jewelers, perfumers, tanners and soap-makers work in surroundings that have
changed very little over the last 500 years.
Tripoli in History
Habitation of the site of Tripoli goes back to at least the 14th century B.C., but it
wasn't until about the 9th century B.C. that the Phoenicians established a small trading
station there. Later, under the Persians, it was home to a confederation of the Phoenician
city states of Sidon, Tyre and Arados Island. Built on the trade and invasion route near
the Abu Ali River, Tripoli's strategic position was enhanced by offshore islands, natural
ports and access to the interior.
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The
Great Mosque |
Under the successors of Alexander the Great during the
Hellenistic period, Tripoli was used as a naval shipyard. There is also evidence that it
enjoyed a period of autonomy at the end of Seleucid era.
Under Roman rule, starting with the takeover of the area by Pompey in 64-63 B.C.,the
Romans built several monuments here. The Byzantine city of Tripolis, which by then
extended to the south, was destroyed, along with other Mediterranean coastal cities, by an
earthquake and tidal wave in 551.
After 635, Tripoli became a commercial and shipbuilding center under the Omayyads. It
achieved semi-independence under the Fatimid Dynasty when it developed into a center of
learning.
At the beginning of the 12th century the Crusaders laid siege to the city, finally
entering it in 1109. The conquest caused extensive destruction, including the burning of
Tripoli's famous library, the Dar il-'ilm, with its thousands of volumes.
During the Crusaders' 180-year rule the city was the capital of the "County of
Tripoli".
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The
Citadel |
But Crusader Tripoli fell in 1289 to the victorious Mamluke
Sultan Qalaoun, who ordered the old port city (today Al-Mina) destroyed and a new built
inland near the old castle. It was at this time that numerous religious and secular
buildings were erected, many of which still survive today.
During the long Turkish Ottoman rule (1516 - 1918) Tripoli retained its prosperity and
commercial importance and in these years more buildings were added to the city's
architectural wealth.
Archeological Excavations
Tripoli has not been extensively excavated because the ancient site lies buried beneath
the modern city of Al-Mina. However, a few accidental finds are now in museums.
Excavations in Al-Mina revealed part of the ancient southern port quay and a necropolis
from the end of the Hellenistic period. A sounding made in the Crusader castle uncover
Late Bronze Age, Iron Age, Roman, Byzantine and Fatimid remains.
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| Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque |
Seleted Tripoli Sites
The Citadel:
Overlooking the city is the imposing Citadel of Tripoli known as Qal’at Sinjil (Saint
Gilles) which has been renovated and changed many times during its history. Today the
castle’s main features are an octagonal Fatimid constructions converted to a church
by the Crusaders, some Crusader structures of the 12th-13th centuries, a number of 14th
century Mamluke additions, as well as additions made by the Ottomans in the 16th century.
The present state of this huge fortress(140 meters long and 70 meters wide) is largely the
result of extensive restoration work by Mustafa Barbar Agha, governor of Tripoli at the
beginning of the 19th century.
Church of St. John of the Pilgrims Mount:
Significant remains of this Crusader church were found in the Maronite Cemetery of Saint
John about 200 meters south of the Castle on Abu Samra hill There are two joined chapels,
the larger of which has a semi-circular apse. the smaller one, with a rectangular apse,
was reserved for funerary use. The church was surrounded by a large Crusader cemetery.
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The
Interior of Hammam Al Jadid |
The Great Mosque:
Begun in 1294 and completed in 1315, the Great Mosque was built on the ruined 12th century
Crusader cathedral of St. Mary of the Tower. Its large courtyard is surrounded by porticos
and a domed and vaulted prayer hall. Inside, one can still see elements of Western
architecture from the old church, including the northern entrance and the Lombard style
bell tower which was transformed into the minaret. The many foundation plaques and decrees
inscribed in the great Mosque and its surrounding madrassas not only inform us about the
building but reveal details of the daily life of the Mamluke period.
Taynâl Mosque: This important mosque was
built in 1336 by Saif ed-Dine Taynâl on the site of a ruined Crusader Carmelite church.
The adjoining domed mausoleum holds the tomb of the founder. Some elements of the original
structure were re-used in the mosque, for example, the two rows of granite columns with
late Roman capitals which stand in the middle of the first prayer hall. The entrance of
the second prayer hall is a unique example of the architectural decoration in Tripoli
during the Mamluke era.
Al-Muallaq Mosque:
The name means "hanging mosque", possibly because it is on the second floor.This
small mosque, built in the middle of the 16th century, has a plain whitewashed interior
with steps leading down to an attractive courtyard garden.The minaret is octagonal and
unadorned.
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Khan
Al Khayyatin |
Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque:
The beautiful Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque was built during the first quarter of the 14th
century A.D. This domed structure has a square minaret erected above the entrance arch and
is ornamented with double windows which have black and white stone arches.The dark stone
portal is decorated with stalactites and the mihrab is covered with an ornate golden
mosaic.
Al-Qartâwiyat Madrassa: The madrassa is
known for the fine workmanship of its ceilings decorated with honey-comb patterns and
stalactites, and its elegant façade of alternate black and white facings. Built during
the first quarter of the 14th century A.D., Al-Qartâwiyat is probably Tripoli's most
ornate building and the only one with a prayer hall covered by an oval dome.
Madrassa al Tuwashiyat:
Built during the second half of the 15th century, this structure and its elaborate
mausoleum are constructed of sandstone in decorative black and white patterns.
The portal is higher than the façade of the building and decorated with shell motifs
embellished by radiating zigzag motif, stalactites and twisted colonettes.
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The octagonal Fatimid
construction in the Citadel |
Khanqash:
This unique building in Lebanon was constructed during the second half of the 15th century
to house Muslim mystics or Sufis. It is designed with an open courtyard and pool. The
courtyard is surrounded by small rooms and a raised platform, or iwan, behind an arch of
alternating black and white stones. The arch is supported by granite columns.
Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne:
This public bathing-house was given to the city by its Mam-luke governor 'Izz ed-Dîne
Aybak. The governor, who died in 1298, is buried in a mausoleum beside the hammam. In
building these baths, he used choice remains from the Crusader church and hospice of Saint
James. The front portal is decorated with an inscribed fragment between two Saint-James
shells, and the inner door is surmounted by the pas-chal lamb. The Hammam 'Izz ed-Dîne
was in continual use until recently and it is now under restoration.
Hammam el-Abed (near Khan
es-Saboun): Tripoli's only functioning hammam is Hammam el-Abed, probably
built at the end of the 17th century. It has the typical pierced domes of Mamluke and
Ottoman era public baths. The interior, with its cushions, central fountain and
traditional fittings, is a living museum.
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An
aerial view of Tripoli |
Hammam Al Jadid: Built around 1740, and
called the “New Bath”, this is by far the largest “hammam” in the
city, although it has not been in operation since the 1970’s, its faded grandeur
still stirs the imagination.
Khân Al-Khayyatin: The Khân Al-Khayyatin
or Tailors’ Khan, is one of the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of the
14th century. It was probably built on the remains of a Byzantine and Crusader monument in
the center of the ancient commercial suburb which controlled passage over the Abu
‘Ali river. Thus, this “khan” has a different plan than the others in the
city. The restored structure consists of a long passageway with tall arches on each side
and ten transverse arches. Just at its western entrance stands a granite column surmounted
by a marble Corinthian capital.
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The
Rashid Karame
International Fair |
Khân Al-Misriyyîn:
The Khân Al-Misriyyîn (Caravansary of the Egyptians) was probably built in the first
half of the 14th century. The traditional arcaded two-story khan has an open courtyard
with a fountain in the center.
Souk Al-Haraj: A unique sight, this covered 14th century bazaar has a high vaulted ceiling
supported by granite columns which may have originally been part of Roman or Crusader
structures. A total of 14 granite shafts can be seen along the north, south and east
sides. Today this space is occupied by sellers of floor mats, pillows and mattresses.
Lions' Tower:
While most of the numerous coastal towers and fortifications which protected Tripoli
during Mamluke times have disappeared or been encroached upon by modern buildings, the
mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is still remarkably preserved. It was given this name
in the 19th century because of the lions carved in relief that once stood above the
entrance. The tower is actually a fortress two stories high with lofty vaulted ceilings.
the west portal is in the typical Mamluke black and white stone pattern. From the outside
you can see how the builders placed Roman columns horizontally in the wall reinforcements.
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| Tripoli Mina (Port) |
Tripoli Today
Modern Tripoli, which has a population of about 500,00, is divided into two parts:
El-Mina, (the port area and site of the ancient city) and the town of Tripoli proper.
The Medieval city at the foot of the Crusader castle is where most of the historical sites
are located. Surrounding this is a modern metropolis which is occupied with commerce,
banking and recreation. The area known as "at-Tall", dominated by an Ottoman
clock tower (built in 1901/2) in the heart of downtown Tripoli, is the transportation
center and terminus for most taxi routes.
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The
Aranib (Rabbit) Island |
When shopping in the old souks or downtown area, remember that gold is a good buy. Other
popular items are Tripoli’s famous sweets and traditional olive-oil based soap, water
pipes and brass work. Al Mina, the port area, is a good place to find sea food restaurants
and fish markets. The city’s most comfortable hotels and Western-style restaurants
can be found in the beach resorts south of the city.
The Rashid Karame International
Fair
Tripoli has a permanent fairground designed by the famous brazilian architect, Oscar
Niemeyer. Here important exhibitions, trade fairs and other events regularly take place.
If You Have Time...
Offshore Islands: Just offshore is a string of small islands. the largest, known as the
Island of Palm Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now a nature reserve for green turtles and
rare birds. Declared a protected area by UNESCO in 1992, camping, fire building or
depredation is forbidden. This island also holds Roman and Crusader remains.
Qalamoun, south of Tripoli, is known for its brass industry. The roadside is lined with
small workshops and showrooms where brass bowls, candlesticks and other objects are
hammered out in the old tradition.
Notes for Visitors
- A tourism information Office is located on Abdel Hamid
Karami Square.
- Wear comfortable sturdy shoes for walking around the old
town and the souks.
- Women should be prepared with head scarves if they wish to
visit mosques.
- Although some of the monuments are kept locked, keys can
usually be obtainedfrom a nearby shop.
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